Mt Carstensz

Carstensz Pyramid is situated in the western central highlands of Papua and is the highest mountain in Oceania, 4,884 m (16,024 ft) and it’s also the highest point between the Himalayas and the Andes and the highest island peak in the world. Puncak Jaya was named “Carstensz Pyramid” after the Dutch explorer Jan Carstenszoon who first sighted the glaciers on the peak of the mountain on a rare clear day in 1623.
What makes the mountain difficult in comparison to the other peaks of the Seven Summits is that this is a serious rock climb where you will have to climb and not hike up the mountain. It is held to have the highest technical rating, though not the greatest physical demands of that list’s ascents. The standard route is up the sharp north face and along the long summit ridge, which is all hard rock surface.
Johan Ernst Nilson has been on two expeditions to the mountain. The first time they were stopped by the gouvernement that didn’t let any team approach the mountain that year but Johan went back the year after to climb the highest peak in Oceania.
He was also a part of a cleaning of the mountain where the team brought down 21 plastic bags filled with garbage.
Johans mission on the mountain was also to interview the natives about climate change and to document the last glaciers.
The glacier disappeared completely some time between 1939 and 1962. Since the 70s, evidence from satellite imagery indicates the Puncak Jaya glaciers have been retreating rapidly. The Meren Glacier melted away sometime between 1994 and 2000. An expedition led by paleoclimatologist Lonnie Thompson in 2010 found that the glaciers are disappearing at a rate of seven meters thickness per year and should be vanished by 2015.
Carstensz Pyramid was not climbed until 1962, by an expedition led by the Austrian mountaineer Heinrich Harrer.